One of the few museums in Paris dedicated to sculpture, le Musée Rodin is a luxurious, striking introduction to Rodin’s flowing works, in surrounds that include not only the stately Hôtel Biron, the mansion where Rodin once worked, but an extensive garden peppered with roses, water features and, of course, sculptures.
There are a couple of nods to his lover and (arguably more talented) contemporary, Camille Claudel, but for the most part the collection features works by Rodin himself. Many flock to the famed Le Baiser (The Kiss) and the piece is beautiful indeed. But it is Rodin’s grittier and more unique work, much of which can be found in the garden, that truly stands out. The most obvious is perhaps Le Penseur (The Thinker), followed by the Porte de l’Enfer (Gates of Hell) however my favourite is the rough-hewn and oddly proportioned Monument à Balzac, praised for capturing the literary giant’s grandeur and coarseness.
In this sculpture, Balzac wraps a cloak about his imposing form, head thrown upwards, hair tossed back like a mane. If you take the metro to Varenne station when you visit, you’ll see another version of the piece on one of the platforms. Hundreds of metres before you arrive at the Hôtel Biron, the museum has already begun.
Les Musées de Paris 