Gaîté Lyrique

Paris is a city of paradoxes, both positive and negative. The metro is not only one of the most efficient and logical transport systems in the world; it can also be one of its most bordélique circles of hell during peak hour or a strike (which occurs far more frequently than you might expect). Food … More Gaîté Lyrique

Tour Jean-sans-Peur

Sometimes I think about all the pastry, butter, cheese and hot chocolate I consume on short trips to Paris and wonder how I don’t roll home four sizes larger than I was before. When I’m settled in Paris for long periods of time, I’m pretty good at basing my meals around fruit and vegetables (although … More Tour Jean-sans-Peur

Les Ponts de Paris

It doesn’t run quite through the centre of Paris, but the Seine river is both the heart of the city and the thing that splits it in two. You’ll hear Parisians refer to their location in a number of ways – arrondissement, closest metro station – but the main geographical distinction in Paris is between … More Les Ponts de Paris

Musée du Quai Branly

French presidents of the Fifth Republic have a thing about museums. Towards the end of their tenure, they tend to announce lofty ambitions for major new museums that will enrich the cultural landscape of Paris- and not least, cement their legacy in it. It started with Georges Pompidou and his radically-designed museum of modern art. … More Musée du Quai Branly

Fondation Custodia

It’s been a long time since I’ve been transfixed in front of a painting. It’s been years since I’ve been so struck by an image that I’ve circled back more than once to drink it in. It’s not that I’ve lost my love of arts or that I haven’t been seeing good exhibitions. I just … More Fondation Custodia

Château de Sceaux

Within a couple of hours of Paris – and in some cases, a couple of minutes – there are literally dozens of châteaux. Some are rather austere but historically significant, like the Château de Vincennes, while others are impossibly decadent and ornate (hello, Château de Versailles). These castles may look like something out of a … More Château de Sceaux